Saturday 8 October 2011

A Book-Lover’s Guide to Bologna

Libraries aren’t the stuff travel guides are made of. Such a shame, in my opinion, because they are an integral part of a city’s composition. Any great city has a library to be proud of- London has the British Library, Alexandria has The Royal Library of Alexandria, Washington DC holds the largest library in the world, The Library of Congress. Why, then, do we not make more of a fuss of these institutions?
This only came to mind as I stepped inside Bologna’s Biblioteca Salaborsa.  A beautiful, rectangular building, this biblioteca is a stunning sight. Cast your eyes upwards and they will relax upon a striking and intricately painted ceiling. Look to the floor and you will be surprised to see that only a floor of glass separates you from a collection of preserved architectural ruins. It gets better. As I wondered through the library, familiarising myself with different levels, I stumbled across some photographs of the building from a few decades past. I almost squealed- this building has not always been used as a library! Oh no, no, no! In the 1880s, it was used for the Stock Market trading. Even stranger, after the Second World War, the building was used to hold basketball matches! Oh yes, I DO mean to write basketball. The tiered structure of the building was perfect for spectators to stand and cheer on their team; an ampithetre in most respects. Indeed, it was not until 1999 that the building was turned into Bologna’s public library.
I couldn’t have started my tour of Bologna in a better way. The irony of it all is that tourists will usually be informed by their generic guidebook to visit the Fontana di Nettuno -rightfully so; the fontana is worthy of unceasing veneration in its own right- but their eyes will gaze no further. Indeed, I watched with open disappointment as many tourists failed to register the existence of the Biblioteca Salaborsa when they were stood in front of it.
How many other city gems do we miss out on seeing because we’re so reliant on our guidebooks to tell us everything that we must see in a city? Although, if I’m honest, I will admit that it is not only tourist guides we have to blame. Indeed, when I typed Biblioteca Salaborsa into Google, I was amazed to find that the library’s website paid no attention to its own impressive history. I guess the people of Bologna prefer to keep this secret to themselves.
I don’t expect sightseers to think that the public library should be the first port of call when visiting a city. However, a library that adds another dimension to a city’s already rich history and culture is, in my books, worth a visit. If you’re ever in Bologna, just pop your head around the door of Biblioteca Salaborsa. I can assure you that you’ll leave with feeling self-satisfied: it will prove to be a cultural, historical and educational encounter that distinguishes your trip from all those that ventured no further than their guidebooks required of them.

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